You have already bought your tickets for your dream trip to South America and Chile is one of the destinations you are planning to visit? 

I guess we both agree on the idea that Chile is one of the most beautiful countries related to nature in South America but if you just open the news and figured it’s been already weeks of intense protests in the country. I assume you are also wondering should you still travel to Chile?

I will share with you in this article my personal opinion, as a Chilean, on why protests are happening and my travel advice for your trip to Chile as where to go, where to stay and what to do in Santiago during the protests.

 

 

How did the protests start in Chile in 2019?

There are many views on the reasons why the protests started in October 2019 in Santiago de Chile.

The incident who started the manifestations was the rise on the Metro prices in $30 CHP (about USD $0,03) and a wave of generalized anger raised following the student movement who was leading at the beginning telling people not to pay the public transportation as a way to protest against it. 

I could see some glimpses of this without knowing about what was gestating while I was in Santiago in September and early October where several people were jumping over the turnstiles in buses and metro stations. Now I know what it was all about.

The social explosion in Chile in October for sure took many people by surprise, I started to get messages from friends trying to understand what was going on, even I was in the same position as I was already back in Europe when everything exploded.

Daily manifestations who were massive, until reaching more than 1 million gatherings around Plaza Italia in the city center, or Plaza Dignidad, how many are demanding to change its name.

The majority of the protests were peaceful and gathering citizens of all ages, including kids and elderly who were demanding better pensions. But there were some violent events and riots that became full of tears gas and watering by police forces who have been accused of several Human Rights violations, until now there are two reports, one by Human Rights Watch and the National Institue of Human Rights INDH. 

This accusation includes the action of the military, cause yes, after 30 years the president called a state of emergency and the militaries were securing a curfew for 7 days in Santiago and later in several cities all over the country. 

Why are the protests in Chile happening?

Again you will read many different opinions about the reasons for the protests in Chile, and here I’m gathering my personal view of the facts trying to be the more neutral I can (if this is even possible).

Chile has been for the last at least 20 years one of the most developed, stable and safe countries in South America, both, to live and to travel. But it has been since so long one of the most unequal countries in the continent.

While all the conventional economic indicators were showing significant growth in Chile’s economy, together with a decline in inequality, imagine that 10% of the richest households earn up to 40 times more than the poorest families in Chile. This means in other words that about 33% of the income generated by the Chilean economy is captured by the richest 1%, and 19.5% of income is captured by the richest 0.1% that are less than 10000 Chileans making in average $170,000,000 per month. 

In 2018, the median monthly wage in 2018 was 400,000 Chilean pesos (gross), about USD$550, when half of the population make even less than USD$400 per month, so what a big number of Chileans were living was that their economy was not growing and their life was becoming more unequal every year.

This was starting to grow, especially after the 17-year Pinochet’s brutal dictatorship ended in 1990 who had most of the people living under fear in what I call a survival zombie mode. By the way, he stays as commander in chief of the army until 1998 influencing considerably over the democratically elected governments under the new extreme free-market ideology codified in the 1980 constitution Chile is having until today and it’s apparently going to change next year. 

 

This model included privatizing state-owned industries and the social security system that’s being in between the demands of the people today as a must change.

The ideas of Neoliberalism took Chile from being a poor country into one of the most prosperous in Latin America and they were, at that moment aim to bring the poorest to a better position in life, while the rich become richer.

But the economic differences were not the only ones, being Chile a divided society separating rich and poor in so many ways that life was feeling unfair for many.

I was wondering when this would happen, seeing so many people struggling to grow and to develop a better life, having to pay more than USD$500 per month for University if you even have the possibility to study,  and when you finish you get offers to make USD $400 for a full-time job as a professional, or having to wait for 5 years to get a surgery appointment in the public system, or elderly people having pensions of USD$150 per month without having health and housing covered, while so many cases were opening about corruption and systematic economic scandals from pharmaceuticals, police, and army, the toilet paper business…I could keep going for pages.

This blog somehow started thanks to that. I’m in no way part of a rich family. We are an average middle-class family, where everyone has to work to have access to some commodities, like good health, education, and other basic services. 

 

I had the privilege to go to University and have no debts when graduating as a Physical Therapist because my parents were supporting me (I was still needing to work during my studies to cost other things at home) , but I ended up working as a technician in a beauty center to have a better salary because as a Physical Therapist I was being offered salaries only around the minimum wage for 45 hours per week and trust me, in Chile that’s definitely not enough.

 

Before than that, what I really wanted to dedicate my life was related to the arts but that is absolutely impossible in a Neoliberal society where you either need lots of money to start your own business or to have enough connections to do it. This blog was my way of protest, to define my own dream independent job absolutely out of what the system was telling me it was the only way to do it. 

 

I guess no one here is against having the opportunity to do business and grow your economy, I work hard daily for that, but I also want everyone having the same opportunity to have access to the things that can give you access to that.

 

This situation is similar to so many people and it had to explode somehow to start the conversation that makes this -so necessary- changes hopefully soon, for the better of everyone living in the country who has half of my heart.

Today Chileans are waking up and screaming for dignity, for a better life that includes more equal opportunities for access to basic services like health and education, and for more fairness in the political and economic systems of the country. 

 

Chile travel advice during December 2019- February 2020

So you already have your flights, tours, and hotels booked for months to travel in Chile, or you are planning to go and are doubting if you can still go to Chile with all of this happening still today 26 of November.

I would say it depends on what are your plans and where are you wanting to spend the majority of your time. The best and quieter areas are far from the bigger cities and if your plans to visit Chile are focused mostly in nature you will be fine.

According to the US State Department State Departments, Chile is under a Level 2 advisory, meaning Exercise Increased Caution, travelers are advised to observe curfews, to monitor local media for updates and to avoid protests and demonstrations.

 

Traveling for Holidays and Vacation

If your travel plans to Chile during December, January or February 2020 are for pleasure, I would move away from the central area and avoid spending time in Santiago and Valparaíso where are the majority of protests daily with the inconvenience of being immersed in tear gas or water thrown by the police to solve the manifestations.

Book tours with official companies and always stay informed about the current situation to avoid any issues.

As usual, only book OFFICIAL Taxis and transfers to go from the Airport to the city.

Traveling for Business

If you have to go for business, it will be ok, but you will probably have issues with transportation and finding places closed.

 

What to do in Santiago

As most of the touristic places, including museums, are located around Providencia and the city center you will need to find alternatives when things are too busy. Some places you can visit previously checking their opening situation:

• Cerro Santa Lucía
• Parque Bicentenario
• Parque Araucano
• Templo Bahai
• The Cable Cra at Metropolitan Park, the Teleferico
• Pueblito Los Domínicos

Best places to visit during Chile protests

My suggestion to enjoy your trip to Chile during this time it will be head either North or South, the areas where there are also the most beautiful and unique places to visit and with the most diversity regarding culture and nature.

If you want to know more about traveling to Chile CHECK HERE this article about Chile facts to know before your first trip.

Visit Patagonia

From Puerto Montt, including Chiloé and all the places around Carretera Austral and Torres del Paine park in Southern Patagonia, this area is one of the most beautiful and ideal to visit this time of the year. We are heading there in January!

For example, if you are in Puerto Natales you can take a full-day tour and see the Mylodon Cave and the impressive Torres del Paine National Park. Hike to a beach for views of the Grey Glacier. You can BOOK HERE and check their prices and availability.

Visit San Pedro de Atacama

Another option to escape Santiago and the central area is the Northern region of Atacama. This includes an impressing variety of landscapes including the driest desert in the world, the Atacama desert, the biggest observatory ALMA, salt lakes, lagoons and life between the ocean and the highlands at more than 5000meters.

You can also combine it with Bolivia and see Uyuni Salar, with this 3-day tour that will take you from San Pedro de Atacama to Uyuni in Bolivia and see the amazing area, but be aware they are also having protests around the country.

Visit La Serena and Elqui Valley

Closer to Santiago, this area is very interesting to visit as it combines nature and culture in an area easy to cover in a few days.

You can enjoy the ocean in La Serena and Coquimbo or go to Elqui Valley to see the clearest skies in the night, or drink pisco during the day.

Visit Rapanui- Easter Island

One of the most beautiful places to visit and not too many Chileans know is this island. With a big influence from Tahiti, the culture and landscapes are totally different from what you will see in any other place in the continent.

 

Travel safety if you are planning to be in Santiago during the protests 2019-2020

While moving around Santiago, especially in the afternoons can be a bit complicated in most areas, there are others where you can still enjoy your time and have a glimpse of what the capital of Chile is. 

I would leave Santiago for the end of your trip, maybe things are calmer then.

Generally is still a safe place to be but if you want to see the protests in person and you don’t speak Spanish I would stay a bit far from the more active areas. If you want to avoid them, stay away from the main streets.

There’s limited activity in commerce and public transportation, I would avoid taking the Metro as there were some incidents there, and go mostly by buses, official taxis or Uber.

You can check all the updates at SERNATUR website, the official tourism office.

 

As many small businesses and commerce are suffering from the situation, always keep in mind to support small local hotels and tour operators during your trip.

 

If you want to add any important information to help travelers have a better experience during the protests, please, send me a message!